Recent Posts AppleCentral Forums en-us Wed, 19 Jun 2013 15:40:44 PDT http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm 5 forums@applecentral.com http://forums.applecentral.com/images/general/default/rss_icon.gif http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/591326#Post591326 NucleusG4
on: 03/08/13 03:57 AM

Roger that.]]> Fri, 08 Mar 2013 03:57:25 PST http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/591326#Post591326 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/582159#Post582159 bearsomg
on: 09/23/12 01:50 PM

Hello!

A while back I bought an iMac G3 slot loading from a thrift sale because it was only $6, worked perfectly, and came with the keyboard and mouse.

I finally decided that I want to mod it and stick in an Intel mini-ITX board to replace the iMac's logic board, while still using the iMac's CRT as a monitor. I know this is possible because I have seen a few posts about people who have successfully installed Mac Mini hardware in these machines while still using the original CRT.

So far I have the case completely off, the logic board out, and I pulled off the video board to look and see if I could find the pins I needed to make a VGA adapter. I managed to find a pinmap for the HE20 connector and a VGA cable here: http://www.hardmac.com/articles/39/page3

Using that pinmap I have wired a VGA cable up to the HE20 video connector under the logic board. Since I read somewhere that the power board needs +5v on the PFW pin to turn on, I bridged it to the T5V pin. When I plug it in and bridge the pins, I can hear the CRT charging up which tells me that the system is powered on, however no video is displayed on the CRT. I am currently using my laptop to test it, with a resolution of 1024x768 at 75Hz, which I know is supported by the monitor because I used that resolution when the PPC logic board was still installed. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty much exactly where this guy ended up: http://www.applefritter.com/node/24478]]> Sun, 23 Sep 2012 13:50:17 PDT http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/582159#Post582159 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/578476#Post578476 MacBozo
on: 07/01/12 08:15 AM

Moderator moved it for you. ]]> Sun, 01 Jul 2012 08:15:24 PDT http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/578476#Post578476 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/570104#Post570104 Dremel Junkie
on: 01/23/12 07:06 PM

I do not know the exact pinout, but the pinout for the 17" will not work. The backlights on the 20" LCD need 24V. I would guess that there are 2 - 24V lines, 2 - grounds, 1 on/off - which I would recommend hooking up to low voltage such as putting a 1 Kohm resistor between the line and 3.3v. 1 - dimmer, which you could probably leave floating. Again this is a guess, but I am certain that a 24V line is needed. Hope thus helps.]]> Mon, 23 Jan 2012 19:06:53 PST http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/570104#Post570104 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/489862#Post489862 TCPMeta
on: 01/19/10 08:40 AM

Think you're forgetting a few things.

A non mac videocard has to be flashed with a PC. After that you can then use the card in the mac with a modified power supply.]]> Tue, 19 Jan 2010 08:40:39 PST http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/489862#Post489862 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/487355#Post487355 daMachine
on: 01/06/10 02:50 PM

Just a bump for an update.

I'm looking at getting a dual 1Ghz xserve, putting it in a 167Mhz mobo, but leaving the bus at 167. Any idea if this CPU can handle the overclock to 1.25Ghz (7.5 x 167)? Or will I probably need to drop the multiplier a bit from 7.5? ]]> Wed, 06 Jan 2010 14:50:34 PST http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/487355#Post487355 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/480764#Post480764 w2ed
on: 12/04/09 02:36 PM

So after doing a little research, I came up with a price comparison for this machine, which I have here. Missing from this list are parts for the case alone (which would more likely than not be custom parts), components I plan to transfer between machines, and a few key components and accessories: TV, Amplifier, iPod Touch, Blu-Ray Player, Surge Protector/battery backup, Speakers, and connectors/plugs.

Common parts between the two machines:
1 $007.99 $007.99 Newegg.com 3.5 Inch USB Front Port (Will be used internally)
1 $029.99 $029.99 Newegg.com D-Link Bluetooth Module (Will be used internally)
1 $063.99 $063.99 Newegg.com 32 GB USB Flash Drive (Will be used for startup device)
1 $024.99 $024.99 Newegg.com Gearhead Wireless Keyboard/Mouse Combo
1 $039.99 $039.99 Newegg.com Wireless: EdiMax 802.11 b/g/n PCI Card *
2 $099.99 $199.98 Newegg.com TV Tuner: WinTV-HVR-950 for Macs and PCs
3 $024.99 $074.97 Newegg.com MacAlly Web Cam
3 $004.99 $014.97 Newegg.com Microphones
4 $084.99 $339.96 Newegg.com 1 TB Western Digital Cavier Green HD's

Total $593.85

Custom-Built PC Parts Alone:
1 $089.99 $089.99 Newegg.com Power Supply: Rosewill Green Series 630W Continuous 80 Plus Certified *
1 $084.99 $084.99 Newegg.com Motherboard: Gigabyte LG 775 Intel P43 ATX Motherboard *
1 $167.99 $167.99 Newegg.com Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 30 Ghz
1 $129.99 $129.99 Newegg.com Graphics Card: PNY NVidea GeForce 9800 GTX+ *
1 $006.99 $006.99 Newegg.com Processor Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5
2 $096.99 $193.98 Newegg.com Memory: Patriot ViperII 4 Gig (2x2) DDR2 SDRAM 1066

Total $673.93

Mac Parts:
1 $039.99 $039.99 Newegg.com SATA Card: SYBA SATA II PCI Controller Card
1 $799.00 $799.00 Other World Computing (macsales.com) Processor Upgrade: Newer Tech MAXPower G4/7448 Dual 1.8 Ghz G4 Processor Upgrade

Total $838.99

* Denotes where Newegg.com listed rebates - Prices are before adding in the rebates.

First, a huge note: I tried to get parts that were either listed as Mac-Friendly on these sites, or in the case of the hackintosh builds, were listed or proven in a couple of online forums as compatible. As always, parts can change, and as a result prices.

Second, I did not include operating system costs. In both cases this is an upgrade; however, in the case of Intel-built, I could add an extra Thumb Drive and Windows for a dual-boot machine (or to use Windows in a Virtual Box.) If I were to stick with the Mac, I'd be looking for OS 10.5, aka Leopard, since Snow Leopard, aka 10.6, has no support, official or otherwise, with my machine currently. (Good luck finding it for less than $200 - the cheapest I saw was on Amazon.com for $211.00. Snow Leopard is not only easier to find, it's much cheaper as well.)

Finally, I could have made the PC Parts more expensive, just as I could have added more to the Mac side, easily. There's only one thing that can not be fixed, however: The cost-to-performance ratio. Everything on the PC side outpaces the Mac Side by significant numbers, which will result in fast RIPS, more reliable DVR functionality, and certainly more machines it will be capable to emulate. As much as I want to argue with common sense, it would be far cheaper to start from scratch than it will be to upgrade.

It's worth noting, though, that the upgrading with Mac Parts has one key advantage over the build-from-scratch PC Parts: there will be little-to-no hacks necessary to complete this. The counter argument, however, comes from the software side.

Sorry for the delay in doing this.]]> Fri, 04 Dec 2009 14:36:24 PST http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/480764#Post480764 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/477124#Post477124 Too Long
on: 09/15/09 01:57 AM

I found a program called gmaboosterX CLI edition. I had to find it at another source but I got it and the CHUD software from apple. I have no real idea how to install this. Can anyone enlighten me please.

thanks!!]]> Tue, 15 Sep 2009 01:57:49 PDT http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/477124#Post477124 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/477131#Post477131 legomactrumpet
on: 09/14/09 04:19 PM

I know all to well now that G5 processors are very specific to motherboards (my cpu broke and its the rarest model) but is it possible if the years and most of the codes mach if you could replace a dual with a quad?]]> Mon, 14 Sep 2009 16:19:29 PDT http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/477131#Post477131 http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/477119#Post477119 nervouschimp
on: 09/05/09 07:17 PM

This is not a complete, comprehensive mod guide, but a few people were asking for some photos from my recent Modbook lower-half swap where I yanked the bottom off my intel GMA modbook, and replaced it with the brand new white nvidia Macbook.

First off, don't attempt this unless you are confident in you laptop dis/assembly skills, and willing to void your warrantee. If you hose your Modbook, it's your own damn fault. OK, I am not going to go through a full step by step takeapart guide because ifixit has a great guide. Grab a box of ziplock bags. As you complete each step, place the screws that were removed in that step in a ziplock bag, and label the bag with a sharpie after the step. Just write "step 6" for example on the bag. Stack your ziplock bags on eachother as you go. This way when you work backwards through the guide to reassemble your modbook/macbook, you won't be confused over which screws go where. If you use this little trick, you will never end up with left-over screws, or put the wrong screws in the wrong places. I learned this trick taking apart powerbooks, those are a real pain.

Start with the brand new or donor macbook. Follow the guide linked above. follow the guide all the way to the end. You will now have a prepped and ready donor half. Below is the donorbook opened up.



Now follow the same guide again for you Modbook. When you get to step 12, open your modbook up like a sandwich by rotating the upper half 180 and carefully setting it glass-down on the table to the exhaust side of the lower-half. The internal cables have some slack, but just be careful. Pretend there is a hinge at the exhaust/top. Pivot from the exhaust port as you fold open and set it down right next to the bottom-half. See the photo below. It shows how your Modbook should be opened up, and worked on.


You can now follow the rest of the guide to unplug the wiring that is connected to the Axiotron top-panel. At this point, just get the top panel fully unplugged. If you are afraid you will forget where to plug things back in, take your digital camera, set it to macro, and snap photos as you go. Take a nice 5+ megapixel photo right after you open the modbook. Refer back to this photo if you get confused. On the upper left side of the Modbook lower-half is the top end of a conspicuous ribbon cable. Unplug any cables from the top assembly where they connect to this ribbon. Leave the ribbon in place (more on the ribbon below). Set the top assembly to the side when it is fully disconnected.

There will be 2 main differences between your donor half, and the modbook. A) The plastic insert over your exhaust grill will need to be removed from the donor:


And B) There is a custom power ribbon on the modbook that goes from the magsafe to the battey, and connects to the top panel. You can see the conspicuous ribbon in the photo below:


And here is a closeup of the top end of the ribbon:


And the battery end of the cable:

The middle of the cable is a circuit board with long pins that is plugged into the logic board. It is obstructed by the steel support piece that runs next to the plug. Unscrew and lift up that support bar if you can't get to where it plugs into the logic board. Carefully pry up the circuit and cable with it from the logic board. Be gentle with the ribbon, the circuit board, and the long pins.

The end of the power ribbon is held in place to the battery bay by 2 screws:

This video shows the battery cable being removed from the chassis. This is assuming you have already unplugged it from the logic board.

After you have removed the battery cable/Axiotron ribbon, transplant it to the donor. Position the screen assembly next to the new lower half and reconnect all the wiring.






When you have properly reconnected all of the wiring follow the ifixit disassembly instructions in reverse to rebuild your new Modbook.

When It's all back together, it will look exactly like it did before the operation:
[img]http://www.nervouschimp.com/modswap/modswap14.jpg[/img]

I may revise this and add more info when I got more time. that's all for now...]]> Sat, 05 Sep 2009 19:17:52 PDT http://forums.applecentral.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/477119#Post477119