They vary in many different ways. Here mostly double pane windows with Low-E (argon gas) windows are used. IMO triple pane windows with (krypton gas) performs about the same as argon windows - triple pane just adds a 2nd Low-E coating <-- just looks more tinted = darker.
I have been happy with our double pane windows. We put extra tint on the windows that face the east and west. Ours are double hung but I think that that is only needed if you clean your windows a lot on the outside. It does keep you from having to remove screens to clean them on the outside.
I am reading a book about anti-gravity. It is really hard to put down.
Papa, we have double pane right now, I think. I only thought about triple pane because of the setting sun and extra heat coming in. Did you tint your windows yourself? Maybe tinting that side of the house is the way to go?
John One easy way to check,, is there is a very small stamp (white in color) at one of the corners of your window - it will say Low-E. If there is no stamp, you do not have Low-E windows. Mind you there are double pane windows but they are NOT gas charged, nor are Low-E coated.
Sure tinting your windows is a low cost method from the Sun Heating through radiation, much like putting sunglasses on your home but thats about it, they do nothing for heat or cool temperature transfer, thats were a Low-E comes into play.
Mind you. That if your home is not properly insulated to begin with, then Low-E is not worth the money, double or triple pane is not gonna help that much. Just tint instead.
During the winter I look at the roofs after it snows and our roof will still have snow even when others have large patches missing due to heat coming out
Thats a great sign, John. Another great heat / cool lost is where the walls meets the foundation. Even if the walls are insulated,, just that one joint where the wall (bottom plate) meets the floor, turns out to be a good heat exchanger. Something that most if not all builders over looked, after all you think the walls are insulated, right.
So in your case, its to late. However the next time you change flooring, you can insulate that floor joint by 50%.
Heres how we do that here. Mind you our intentions was to curb (sound transfer) between condo units. This is when the sound engineers discovered that not just sound transfer between units but also heat and cool air as well. At the end of framing , just before dry walling. Apply a thick bead of (acoustical caulk) then install the dry wall, after the dry wall, apply another bead of caulk, later your finish flooring and base boards goes over the caulk.
You must use (acoustical caulk) - Latex and Silicone caulk has very little thermal value, some brands non at all. Also do not use the (fire rated caulk) red in color because it is more toxic and the red dye that is used can telegraph through your finished floor.
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