I had a 12" 1.07Ghz ibook logic board die. I purchased a 12" 1.33Ghz with a bad display thinking I could swap them. I've never really dug too deep into displays but open these things often.The 1.07Ghz model has 2 more wires on what I think is the LCD power harness (totals 6 wires) whereas the 1.33Ghz models logic board has 4 wire harness receiver. Can anyone tell me what the 2 wire difference is? I'd really like to get the darn thing back together as my dog is bound to bump into my table holding my screws in place on paper! Thank you for you help in advance!
OR could someone tell me what the problem might be with the original display? I believe its the backlight as if you look close enough with a lamp you can see the display working. The guy I bought it from said he replaced the inverter and it didn't help. Is there something else I might have?? -This would be of even more help as the darn antennae connectors and cable lengths for the wifi differ from the other as well.
Sorry for the 3rd consecutive post- Do these displays have cold cathode bulbs that I may be able to swap from the broken ibook to the new one? -Or any part at that. Also note the lcd data cable is the same. If none of this is feasible, can the other two wires be tapped into another power source on the logic board?
OK I've taken apart the screens. The extra two cables are for a reed switch. Is this needed? Why doesn't the old one have a reed switch? I bypassed it using the wire from the old LCD. Its doing the same thing as the one I thought was broken. So either I need the Reed switch, or power output from the logic board is too weak. anyone?
No problem, just the screws were on papers and my dog likes to bump the table. I went 8 hours straight messing with those two laptops. I've just finished soldering in some new wire where the wires don't bend as a patch... but I don't like it too much -still I can put it back together for the time being. Anyone know where I can purchase a replacement LCD power cable? I'd feel more comfortable with the padded cable. Thanks
I might be able to help there. I've been refurbishing a stack of laptops recently and have had to write a few off.
Also, when you say your !GHz board died, what exactly was the problem with it? The G4 boards seemed to have a similar issue to the G3s where the would lose video. Thing is, the G3s would boot up regardless, the G4s with the issue do not. With the exception of the last of line 1.42GHz 14" and 1.33GHz 12" boards, I can fix the video issue issues on G4 iBook boards. If yours has that problem, I'd refurbish it for $50 labour and you pay shipping (I am in the UK This offer is open to anyone else who has a G4 board needing the fix). I can only fix the video issue, so bad RAM/VRAM or any power issues or any other fault I cannot help with. Symptoms for the G4 video fault are predominantly a completely black screen, caps lock light comes on when pressed, sometimes the fan stays on full, and pressing the power button once does not shut it down. You have to hold the power button down for a few seconds to power off (I think some needed battery and AC pulled). Units which are on the way out may have the issue come and go. You can test for it by squeezing (below the HD - don't squeeze too hard, just like the G3s) when you power on. If the video comes back on, I can fix it.
Thanks oojacoboo, I'll check it out. Waragainstsleep that's what happened to my original laptop. The GPU BGA gave away, probably due to lube failure at the hinges applying pressure across the chassis as you open and close (Ball grid array bad idea!) I fixed it with 23049823 layers of foil and a heat gun and reflowed the solder. But every once in a while I'd still lose video even though there was a 100percent improvement. The second time I did it I think there was a negligence of foil gap allowing heat to one of the caps. I surely wasn't going to test them all and attempt to hand-replace. I was going out on a limb doing that in the first place.
My issue know is modding my LCD so my wifi antennae can reach up there. I've actually pulled out one of the little coax from the 90degree adapter on the wifi (also bluetooth maybe) module itself. Anyone have any pointers for fixing this? It was a clean pull. The other type was airport card and only required one cable. This one is two. Thanks. Pardon the slanted typing -I just woke up >:D
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