Ok I have upgraded the memory, installed a bigger (8gig) hard drive, changed the logic board out(bad lan) and swapped the processor card from a 233 mHz to a 333mHz. Guess I should have been taking pictures of all this... Next I am grabbing the soldering iron and overclocking the cpu... gonna practice on the 233, say take it to 300 as that is supposed to be stable. Then crank up the 333 to 400 after I get the hang of looking through a magnifying glass while I solder. My question, has this been done so many times I should not bother covering it here?
Edit; Griffer, I just saw your post after I sent mine, not trying to steal your thunder
Post edited by: anil8tor, at: 2005/07/23 15:44
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Macbook 2.1 core duo 1gig 160gb sata iMac g5 w/1 gig 160gig all-in-one and SWEET! iBook G4 IGhz Quicksilver Dual 800's iPod touch "Guys, I think we just lost the platform here" Pete Conrad When in doubt, try SCE to AUX
Heh, no problem . A guide to overcloking the imac i just as usefull as the emac, imo
btw. If the 333 is one of the fanless imacs, you should be very aware of heat-issues. The g3 cpu is really hot already, so you might have to do some modifications to make it run stable.
Edit: Ohh they never made a 333 fanless one did they , so i guess the fan should be able to cope with the heat.
Post edited by: griffer, at: 2005/07/23 16:00
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- iMac g5 2ghz, 1.5gb ram. - eMac 1ghz (clocked at 1.27): 1gb RAM, Dual Layer Pioneer DVD +/- RW, 80 gb HD, 160 & 250 external Lacie FW HD´s. And modified cooling. - iMac 600 mhz - b&w in atx case, with sata drives :p - PowerMac g3 b/w - with atx psu - PowerBook G3 Wallstreet
Ok, After some prodding by you guys I have added the resistor settings for all the old iMac g3's. I hope you can figure out my table... if not let me know and I'll try to explane it :P
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Macbook 2.1 core duo 1gig 160gb sata iMac g5 w/1 gig 160gig all-in-one and SWEET! iBook G4 IGhz Quicksilver Dual 800's iPod touch "Guys, I think we just lost the platform here" Pete Conrad When in doubt, try SCE to AUX
Registered: 11/16/07
Posts: 1816
Loc: Florida, USA
333MHz to 400MHz??? Thats kinda a leap for a system that uses a half inch heatsink with no fan.I know it can be done it's just you'll end up killing the system faster.
My 333 has been running at 400 for about three weeks now, not all the time though, maybe 3 or 4 hours a night after work. So far the only "hang" I've had is when Limewire launches Itunes while I am running other programs. Pluse a couple of widgets. But hey, it did that befor I clocked it! I would def rec some added cooling though just to be safe... I realy would if I left it on all the time. In fact I am looking to add a larger heatsink if I get the time and can make it fit
BTW these processor cards are cheep on ebay and I like to have spares around...
Also if you look in the case above the processor cage, there is a large fan...it pulls cooling air in the holes under the logic board over the heat sink and out the top.
Post edited by: anil8tor, at: 2005/08/01 18:27
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Macbook 2.1 core duo 1gig 160gb sata iMac g5 w/1 gig 160gig all-in-one and SWEET! iBook G4 IGhz Quicksilver Dual 800's iPod touch "Guys, I think we just lost the platform here" Pete Conrad When in doubt, try SCE to AUX
I did this last year, so these pictures are a bit old. It's stable at this speed. I didn't feel like like making the leap to 400 without extensive testing first. (Why yes, I am an engineer) Moving around the resistors is a major pain. One possible mod here would be to install dipswitches. (in theory, that would allow operation from 33MHz to 533MHz) While the processor/heatsink is directly below the fan, I would not be inclined to take this above 400MHz without major modifications to the heatsink. The IBM PPC 750CL is only rated at 333MHz. Of course, while 333 is fast enough for most purposes, there are some applications that require more. The Digital Archive Project, for example. CCFL lighting. Since this picture was taken, the plastic endcaps on the tubes have been dremeled down to fit better, and the lights are now parallel to the front. Also, the CCFL driver has been heatshrinked and placed under the motherboard and the on/off switch installed under the usb/ethernet ports. (because sometimes the light does get annoying) I like the effect from the back.