<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr><p>When the car is running it will read 13.8 volts or so. When you turn your car off it will settle in at a certain voltage then tail off a bit. Say it hangs at 12.4 volts<p><hr></blockquote><p>It does that because the alternator is operating. As soon you shut it off the voltage drops to 12.something soon. Each cell has 2.1 volts so it should be 12.6 at optimum, with no battery cables connected. Connect the cables and it drops as the car computer etc is pulling power, more power than a phone charger does I guarantee, and once you complete a circuit the voltage potential will drop so 12.2-4 is about right.<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr><p> If you do that and run an electric cooler in the back you will watch the voltage slowly drop and your battery will be dead in the morning. <p><hr></blockquote><p>Well of course Ready Kilowatt, an electric cooler pulls hundreds of times more current than a cell phone charger, stick to DNA.<br><br>------>#1 - JD's Trivia game<br><br>------>#2 - MM-MCF Trivia game<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by Reboot on 09/02/08 10:39 PM (server time).</EM></FONT></P>
What all of your calculations leaves out is how much the cell phone draws when it is charging while also hunting for a signal. As smart as they are most take more than 750mAh when charging and most are not that smart when they go into trickle charge after being charged. That is almost an amp per hour which could kill a battery that is on its last legs. If the back of the phone is warm there have been more than a few electrons pushed around.<br><br>And no, I was not comparing an electric cooler to a cell phone charging and seeking a signal. I was just pointing that out as a humane interest story that even the infallible jackass can make a mistake every decade or so. <br><br>
You're out of your league on this poly, give it up. You're only powering a cell phone not a flux capacitor. Yes it pulls more power when hunting for a signal but nowhere near an amp an hour, that would kill a brand new phone battery in 45 minutes. <br><br>Approximate Power when charging: 2.77 W<br><br>Approximate Power when not charging: 0.25 W<br><br>P=IV so P/V=I<br><br>2.77/12=.23 amps for the first 2 or 3 hours till charged, less than 1 amp drawn.<br><br>.25/12=.021 amps in idle mode. It would take 50 days to pull an amp. <br><br>http://www.girr.org/random_stuff/camping_power_tips.html<br><br>------>#1 - JD's Trivia game<br><br>------>#2 - MM-MCF Trivia game
P over V equal I? I say Uncle.<br><br>OK Mister Kilowatt man I got a question. This new house has a shop wired to the gills. On the center table he had a lathe, a planer, and a couple of other high draw stuff so hanging from the ceiling is a bunch of 208 or 220 both twistlok and the one blade turned sideways plugs. As pointed out by you my ignorance of real electricity is astounding but I do know that those plugs would have two hot wires and a ground. The two hots give you double the normal house 110.<br><br>Problem: short term I want to run a couple of normal house current sowing machines on that center table. Draping an extension cord up over from the side of the shop is doing the trick now.<br><br>Question: Wouldn't there be an easy way to grab one hot and a ground wire to make nice 110 house current from the drops or would that be me finding a good way to burn the house down?<br><br><br><br><br><br>
Loc: Hampstead, MD, USA
<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr><p>Question: Wouldn't there be an easy way to grab one hot and a ground wire to make nice 110 house current from the drops or would that be me finding a good way to burn the house down?<p><hr></blockquote><p>Sure, but it wouldn't be legal to do so as the 110 wouldn't be properly protected as it's fed from a double pole breaker, and the wiring for the 220 is likely a thinner gauge than for 110.<br><br>In other words if one of those sewing machines locks up and draws heavy current, there goes the house :P<br><br>A better solution is to just junction some wire from the 110 outlet and run it to where you want with a new receptacle. <br><br><br>Hey I'm an F'n Jerk!®
Hey I'm an F'n Jerk!® twitter.com/SgtBaxter facebook.com/Bryan.Eckert
<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr><p>Sure, but it wouldn't be legal to do so as the 110 wouldn't be properly protected as it's fed from a double pole breaker, and the wiring for the 220 is likely a thinner gauge than for 110.<p><hr></blockquote><p>Wow, you're as good as Reboot. Hadn't thought of the double pole breaker and the thinner wire since you get bigger voltage with less actual amps over a single wire but it makes sense.<br><br>I knew there was a reason not to burn the house down that way. I will use your suggestion and go back to the panel and get a real 110 circuit. Meanwhile the room is so overpowered I can go get a separate circuit for each machine with heavy duty extension cords. First task is to get rid of the sawdust. Fine cabinetry since 1964 and the sawdust is everywhere. They would suck it up and blow it outside and I have rabbits living in luxury in that pile. Inside the shop every hidden surface has a coating. Luckily he had a hermetically sealed door between this and the house with a negative draw on the shop with a huge fan I now use to cool the entire house.<br><br>If you can believe it the pic below is a 45 foot long by 24 foot wide room. This is the before as it was still a working shop when I first saw it. I can now ride my bike in it even with windsurfers and a surfboard in the corner, four bikes, a kiln and a pottery wheel. (The five kayaks are through that back door in the garage<br><br><br><br>I saw this shop and bought the place two days later. I'll post an "after" picture when I take one this weekend.<br><br>
Mister Kilowat man, LOL.<br><br>Like Sarge said, using one hot leg and ground technically would work but not up to code.<br><br>If you don't have the need for the 208's, you *can* use the wiring from the 208's to run one hot, one ground, and one neutral though for 110, just replace the 208 breaker with a single pole 110 breaker, run one hot wire to it, and the other hot to the neutral bus, no need to rewire to the outlet as long as the wires aren't too big to fit into a 110 outlet or breaker. The size of the wire will probably be bigger than needed but that is not unsafe, actually safer and is up to code, as long as the breaker protecting it is correct.<br><br>Also remember that the hot wire is the black wire, the copper colored screw on a 110 outlet, and the white is neutral, the silver colored screw, of course the ground is the green screw. Some equipment is sensitive to where the neutral wire is, that is why plugs are polarized, one bigger than the other.<br><br>Even though technically neutral and ground are the same, zero potential, the ground is a separate line attached to a ground stake somewhere, and the neutral bus should be coming off of the transformer outside, although some boxes put the ground and neutral on the same bus inside the breaker box, which actually may cut down on emf noise by placing ground and neutral at the same potential.<br><br>Just watching out for your electrons man, would hate for them to jump off the wire onto your wall and burn down your dream home.<br><br>------>#1 - JD's Trivia game<br><br>------>#2 - MM-MCF Trivia game
I am printing that out and tacking it to the shop wall. Hopefully I find the wire actually color coded that way but since part of the house was built in 1877 it might not be the case. I will be testing and touching wires with the back of my hand before I believe neutral is really neutral. <br><br>The house went up in bits, 1877, 1958, 1964, 2001 as far as I know but actually the wiring is almost decipherable. There are two feeds coming off the street. The shop was separate to get commercial tax breaks and I think I found three panels but there might be another lurking somewhere. I've got to convert the house to something that can be shut down and take a minus 5 F shot from a year rounder so I have some plumbing to do first before I do anything on the electric side. That's number 76 on my list right now working on number 18 this weekend, clear property line. They have something called cat's bramble up here which is the nastiest thorny invasive vine I have ever met. Just doing a survey and my lab thought I was on the losing side of a cat fight.<br><br><br><br><br>
Advice I am already following. I have the guy who is going to service the furnaces coming in to prime the pump on one of them in a week or so and I hear tell he is also a whizz with electric and plumbing. My new best friend. But before I do that I want to go over everything with a fine tooth comb so at least I know what I have or know where the wires or pipe go to and come from so I am not wasting his time. I still have more than a couple of switches on walls they I have no clue what they do.<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>
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