Wow, I was looking for one pixel and totally missed that.<br><br>

Poly.. is that a flow cytometer ?<br><br>whatever it is, it looks damm expensive !<br><br>David (OFI)

An FTMS mass spectrometer with linear trap. Cheap for the resolution, only $750,000.00<br><br><br><br><br><br>

I thought I would be cute and shoot it in a mirror.<br><br><br>Nice and solid feeling in the hand. The camera itself is metal, no plastic. The one thing I might call a fault is the very fragile seeming doors which close over the lens. It's a beautiful Leica lens behind it but I know I am going to put it in a pocket and trash the lens cover then ding the lens. I might find a cap to slip over the whole lens before storage.<br><br>Other than that I keep finding things I like about it. It has a ton of menu driven changes like bracketing and burst mode like other cameras but this one I might be able to use them because you an very quickly get to the choices. There is a quick way and a detailed way. The quick way it liits you to the changes you might do in each mode.<br><br>The worst I can say is it does not give you total manual control. But I can live with that. I can take a 15, 30 or 60 second shutter speed shot for stars. That's enough manual for me.<br><br>It shoots HD movie with sound. I thought that has always been cheesy and low quality on a camera but I tested it and comes out as a pretty nice quicktime with good sound.<br><br>

"... does not give you total manual control."<br><br>That did it for me. I need manual control of exposures. Too bad.<br><br>- a.k.a. Mississauga -

It doesn't give you select a shutter speed type manual mode but it gives you ASA 100 up to 1600. It also gives you min and max shutter speed settings. I've tried to think of what kind of manual shot I can't do and I can only think of ways to get it to shoot the right aperture to get a selection of depth of fields. Since I can push the shutter min max and the ASA pushed up or down I think I can get a shallow depth of field if I want it.<br><br>But it is a point and shoot, not a DSLR. For a point and shoot the auto setting where it decides everything is pretty slick. That's what a point and shoot should do.<br><br>One last thing that is amazing. The shaky camera mode. I leave it in mode to which electronically locks the camera on the picture. It does it by shooting and comparing the pixels to remove jitter. I've tried hand held maxing the zoom and the picture is dancing like crazy hand held, but you snap the picture and it locks on. This is the first camera I have had stabilizing and I like it.<br><br>

yeah, the HD in this little thing is what pushed me over the edge towards this model. when we go to Europe i imagined making 1 - 2 minute YouTube videos for my kids to send to their classes back home (maybe daily).<br><br>but the HD is pretty good from the 2 times i've fiddled. <br><br>--<br>[color:red] Kansas Jayhawks -- 2008 National Champions </font color=red>

I tried some more HD stuff and went over to the fountain in front of PF Changs<br><br><br><br>And bracketed some shots<br><br>Then went to the Apple store and laid on the floor under the spiral staircase.<br><br><br><br>These are so much better huge as the clarity just knocks your socks off.<br><br>Weird stuff happens when you brakcet. This is the left had side of that fountain shot with people walking through as I bracket.<br><br><br><br><br><br><br>

wait, is the first shot cropped or did you stitch together a bunch of shots?<br><br>and the bottom shot with bracketing . . . i hadn't thought of trying it on moving subjects, but that's kind of cool.<br><br>--<br>[color:red] Kansas Jayhawks -- 2008 National Champions </font color=red>

The first shot is just cropped. The moving people were just off to the left. I did a bunch of brackets inside the store with moving people and they are pretty neat. Moving water, wind in trees makes those things diffuse.<br><br>