I recently acquired 2 eMacs from a friend. The first one I received is a 1ghz machine with 512MB RAM ...it's COMPLETELY dead. I hit the button and it does jack schitt. I'm guessing it's the power supply. <br><br>Enter eMac #2. I get it home last night thinking it's the same as the first one. Nope. It's 700mhz with 384MB RAM ...but it does work. <br><br>My question is if I can either snag the power supply from the 700mhz eMac and slap it into 1ghz machine ...or transplant the logic board into the 700mhz shell. Are they similar enough to transplant parts?<br><br>The 700mhz eMac has big holes in it's speaker grate ...the 1ghz has small holes. If that helps any.<br><br>I have taken the 1ghz machine almost completely apart, so I know somewhat how they are put together.<br><br>zweisoft<br>

Check this out...<br><br><br>M i c h a e l (OFI)

After a little more research on the welovemacs site I see that the power supplies of the 700 and 1GHz have different part numbers. Whether that means they are power-rated differently or have different plugs is any body's guess.<br><br><br>M i c h a e l (OFI)

As you have taken one of them completely apart. How accessible is the optical drive? Would it be easy enough to replace the CD-RW drive with a superdrive?<br><br>A friend of mine has a 7 or 800 and I have a spare pioneer 105 superdrive I would like to put in its place.<br><br>TIA<br><br><br>M i c h a e l (OFI)

The power rating on both of my eMacs is 170watt according to MacTracker and Apple-History.com. Now if they will fit in the same hole! <br><br>As far as replacing the CD drive ...that's easy. Just remove all the outer screws with an allen wrench and remove the outer shell. The CD drive is on the very outside attached with a couple screws. Just tell him to be careful when removing the outer shell because there is a wire that connects to the power button on the outside. That wire can be tricky to reconnect too. <br><br>zweisoft<br>

The capacitors on the logic board may be leaking and swollen. Check the serial number to see if it qualifies for the repair extension.<br><br>http://www.apple.com/support/emac/repairextensionprogram/<br><br>

I had an old iMac once that died like that. After trying different power cords with no luck, I used an emory board (nail file) on the connectors on the back, where the power cord plugged in, to clean them up a bit, like I used to do to electrical connections on cars, and it fired right up. Sandpaper works, too. <br><br>

"like I used to do to electrical connections on cars"<br><br>Spoken like a true beach resident....<br><br>As far as the power supplies - I'd just try it. If they fit, they'll probably work. In fact, I'd scavenge all the stuff that fits to make the best possible combination eMac. <br><br><br><br>Don't be too circumspective - you'll end up traveling slower than the speed of life.

Close but no cigar. Not on the list.<br><br>It also looks like the power supplies are not compatible. Two different styles. <br><br>Not only that but something happened and now the eMac that worked now doesn't power on at all. maybe it has to do with the connector to the power button!?!? <br><br>Is there a way to turn the machine on without using the button? Some other button inside the case used for techs?<br><br>zweisoft<br>

I think Donna is on to the most probable cause for failures in your eMacs; corrosion, or some pollutant build-up on electrical contact points. You really can get a lot of stuff to come back to life by just checking connections. Worrying a connection will clean the contacts. Making sure stuff is tight will do the same. <br><br><br><br>Don't be too circumspective - you'll end up traveling slower than the speed of life.

What they said. <br><br>Except, have you reset the PMU on them if they won't power on? eMacs are notorious for the PMU crapping out when power is cut from them while they are running. Check the battery too.<br><br>I doubt the logic board swap would work. It looks like there were 3 different models of the 1.0Ghz. While the 700Mhz was a 100 Mhz bus, the 1Ghz had 2 133 Mhz models and a 167 Mhz bus speed model.<br><br>------> JD's Trivia game<br><br>------> MCF-MM Trivia game

These two look quite a bit different on the inside. Doesn't look like I'd be able to swap anything out ...now I'm just wondering what I did to get the eMac 700 to not power on. No beep ...nothing happens when i hit the button. <br><br>The only other thing I did was I took the fuse out that goes to the power supply and put it in the other and swapped it back <br><br>Another question. I have an old G3 usb keyboard that has a power button on it. Would the power button work to boot this eMac if it were in good shape? It works to turn on my PowerMac QuickSilver 733<br><br>zweisoft<br>

The keyboard button should work.<br><br>Try the PMU reset on both.<br><br>------> JD's Trivia game<br><br>------> MCF-MM Trivia game

I tried the PMU on both ...no go on either one.<br><br>zweisoft<br>

So, what did you do to the 700 Mhz? <br><br>------> JD's Trivia game<br><br>------> MCF-MM Trivia game

Took the case off ...looked at it ....swapped out the fuse and tried it in the other eMac. ..put it back in. Put the case back on and dead<br><br>I don't think I did anything to harm the fuses ..but at this point I'm clueless.<br><br>zweisoft<br>

Maybe the batteries are dead? What happens if you reset the PMU with a dead battery in it? Does the battery have to have charge for it to work?<br><br>zweisoft<br>

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr><p>What happens if you reset the PMU with a dead battery in it?<p><hr></blockquote><p>Can't say other than lots of bad things happen with a dead battery.<br><br>The battery won't charge BTW. It should be 3.5v or so.<br><br><br>------> JD's Trivia game<br><br>------> MCF-MM Trivia game

I was using my dad's volt meter the last time I had problems. I gave it back so I can't really check it. I'll probably go get one later today because I'm always wanting to test batteries/fuses<br><br>So when did the keyboards with power buttons stop working with the computers? With G5s or Intel Macs? I know it doesn't work with my Intel iMac<br><br>zweisoft<br>

Well ..i got a volt meter. One of the batteries was dead as a doornail. The other was putting off ~3v ....I took the battery out of my PowerMac which is a good one and put it in both to test it. No good in either one. I hit the PMU's again too. I know bad things can happen if you hit the PMUs too much so I wonder if I did anything bad by doing that several times. <br><br>Anywho. Both are still dead. The fuses I took out and swapped are good. Is there anything else you can think of to try?<br><br>zweisoft<br>

PS ..I did some google searching and i found a couple people saying I couldn't use the power button on the keyboard to turn on an eMac. If that IS the case ..then I'm guessing I just have either a bad button ...or the wire/connectors got fscked up when I took the case off <br><br>Is there any manual way other than that button to turn an eMac on?<br><br>zweisoft<br>

Is there any manual way other than that button to turn an eMac on?<br><br><br>Whisper soft nothings? <br><br><br>

lol! <br><br>zweisoft<br>

I am using a Bondi iMac keyboard with my eMac. It has a power on button on the keyboard but it won't turn the eMac on.<br><br>fwiw<br><br>

PM'd you some info.<br><br>------> JD's Trivia game<br><br>------> MCF-MM Trivia game

Thanks! I don't feel like cracking open the cases again tonight ...but I'll probably get around to trying to figure this out in the near future. <br><br>I won't be cracking open another working Mac for a long time ...i think I'm jinxed!<br><br>zweisoft<br>